Raf Simons Debuts Disappointing Couture Show For Dior
[UPDATE: I have added more (and better) images that show the details, which are exquisite, but I'm still underwhelmed by the shapes and several of the color ways.]
Well that was underwhelming. Raf Simons’ debut show for Dior Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2013 just happened in Paris and I can’t say I’m thrilled. I know it’s easy to say he’s no Galliano, but um, yeah.
It was for the most part, pretty refined. Classic Dior, but streamlined for today. None of the drama or over-the-top romanticism of the Galliano days. Not that we expected that. This definitely was going back to the roots of Christian Dior, the now classic 50s shapes, his love of flowers (each of the rooms were covered in a different color flower). It was all just kind of prim and proper.
For such a high-profile show, I’m bored. I wanted more. This is Raf’s first stab at couture, so maybe he didn’t have enough time? I’m curious to see what he’ll do for ready-to-wear. It’s really too soon to say, but after seeing this show I can’t help but think Raf is a better fit for Jil Sander than Dior. Today’s Dior. It was just all pretty and fine.
What did I like? I liked the more Raf feeling stuff, the tie-dyed dresses, the bold yellow, strong blue. The color-split dresses were interesting, one of them closed the show.
Something that I think could be a new shape trend? Peplums over capris. Although there’s a fucshia pink dress over black pants that should be burned. I should stop before I get even more bitchy.
Notables in attendance: Marc Jacobs, Sharon Stone, Alber Elbaz, Jennifer Lawrence, Riccardo Tisci, Carine Roitfeld, and Princess Charlene of Monaco.
More key looks after the jump (and some pics of the different rooms too).
[Via Grazia Daily]
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It took me a while to find a viewpoint which I agreed with. I’ve followed this story since Raf “left” Jil Sander, and was excited to see what I thought would be a smart choice (in contrast to the later excesses of Mr Galliano) for Dior. I must say I was underwhelmed by this first collection, it feels too close to a prêt-à-porter effort, which could be explained by Mr Simon’s lack of couture experience. Also, to give hime the benefit of the doubt, he did not have much time to integrate himself into the house and its codes (which frankly have as much relevance to today’s fashion as hoopskirts, but that’s another story). A general rule to creativity is… to break the rules. But I’ll wait and see what he comes up with for his second collection before I really decide. I don’t wear these things (I’m a guy) but I do appreciate good fashion. This was just too pedestrian. Another thing, it is so obvious now how the press panders to the most important companies to keep those advertising pages. The reviews from the majors are pretty much all raving, but the editors in the video of the show (on the dior site) look as bored as wallpaper. Thanks for your take, and thank you for the opportunity to add to it.
I agree, I get the sense the press is pandering—for money. The all important ad dollars.
Anyway, I’m glad you found my site. Enjoy!
It was so boring, boring and boring. Bring back John Galliano!!! I loved his glamour, luxury and extravagance for Dior Couture.
Yep, exactly, Camila—a snoozefest. I can’t wait to see what Galliano does next!
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I agree with everything you’ve said especially “he’s no Galliano” and I was just so disappointed from the utter lack of DRAM-AH!!